By James Souder
By coming to the Middle East to study culture, religion, and the ongoing Israeli/Palestinian conflict, I now understand the issues here are complicated. I realize this is not a strong conclusion to arrive at, but "complicated" is the only word I can think of to accurately describe the plight of both Arabs and Israelis in this land. The stories of both people groups cannot be understood without looking at the past and present sufferings each group has faced, and yet for any solution to work both groups must look past their suffering towards a better collective future.
We have seen signs of hope during our semester of people who have begun to move past their suffering to work towards peace. The parents of Bat-Chen speak about their daughter's vision of peace even after she was killed on her birthday in a suicide bombing in Tel Aviv. Hashem Azzah refuses to respond with violence to the Israeli settlers who attack and harass his family in Hebron. Noha Khativ, a Palestinian Arab Israeli, grew up as a minority amongst extreme prejudice. Instead of holding grudges, she decided to try her best to make the lives of her children better than her own childhood. Rather than fearing "the other," Noha set up an organization called Hand in Hand which brings Arab and Israeli children together in a bilingual school system. The children learn Hebrew and Arabic while studying one another's culture and religious traditions. Not only does this provide opportunities for the children to become friends with "the other," but the kids' parents have opportunities to interact with one another as well.
I believe that providing opportunities for Palestinians and Israelis to interact on a human level with one another is one way to break down the barrier between the two cultures. The people here have so many different labels for one another: Jewish, Christian, Muslim, secular, Orthodox, Messianic, Arab, Israeli, Palestinian, zionist, nazi, terrorist, soldier, tourist, student. These labels build up to create preconceived notions which are sometimes inaccurate and frequently difficult to look past. If people are able to see people for who they are rather than who they think others are, then peace is one step closer.
However, many obstacles stand in the way of Palestinians and Israelis interacting with one another. The most noticeable obstacle is the separation wall which falls roughly between the West Bank territory and Israel (favoring the Israeli side). This wall keeps Israelis and Palestinians from interacting with one another on a regular basis, which only entrenches the negative stereotypes over time. If I was a Palestinian and my only interaction with Israelis was with soldiers at checkpoints, I would grow to hate everything associated with the occupying force. Likewise, if I was Israeli and only heard about Palestinians when a suicide bomb attacked my people, I would associate the word 'Palestinian' with 'terrorist.' This is one trend which has the potential to alienate both sides from one another if steps are not made to encourage positive interaction between Palestinians and Israelis.
I am appreciative of the opportunity to study about the conflict from both sides of the separation wall because now I am able to associate faces of people to the words 'Palestinian' and 'Israeli.' It is difficult to match 'terrorist' with 'Palestinian' when I think of Samer Kokaly or Tent of Nations. Likewise, my mind does not jump to 'occupying force' when I think of Jared Goldfarb or Laurie with the Oranim program. Just imagine how the current situation would be different if every Israeli and Palestinian had strong connections with people across the wall. It is easy to hate the unknown because ignorance creates the strongest enemies. But if people can connect with one another, perhaps the message of 'loving ones enemies' can spread.
I believe my role in this conflict as an American Christian (and, more importantly, a human being) is to make as many relationships on both sides of the conflict as I can, then to bring my new insights back to my peers and church. Father Elias Chacour gave our group some fantastic advice: "If by taking our (the Palestinian) side makes you hate the Jews, then we do not need your friendship. What we need today is one common friend." I have tried my best during this trip to avoid becoming one-sided. If nothing else, coming here and studying this conflict has made me realize that every situation has more than one perspective. Not every situation is black-and-white, but every situation has a human aspect. If I can match faces to both sides of a conflict, just as I have done here in the Middle East, I will be less likely to harbor hate towards one side. This does not suggest that I ignore injustice in the world, but rather that I work towards justice with love for all people. I have hope for the Middle East, but I know peace will not come easily. Both sides must be willing to give something up in order to create a common future. But in my opinion, it is better to give something up for peace than to live in fear. I do not have solutions after visiting this land--only small suggestions and large questions. Like I said at the beginning, this conflict is complicated, but my visit has been priceless.
Monday, April 11, 2011
Jesus Trail/Nazareth
Each night on the Jesus Trail we slept in completely different locations. Night 1: Cana, an Arab town where Jesus turned the water into wine. Night 2: an Israeli goat farm with many sustainability aspects. Night 3: a high-class Bed and Breakfast on the cliffs of Arbel. The Galilee is packed with cultures, and I find it fantastic that you can walk from one to another. The trail connects people to one another in ways not possible otherwise.
Now we are in Nazareth, staying at the Fauzi Azar Inn. We spend our mornings at Nazareth Village, doing whatever needs to be done. I have mostly been weeding around grape vines and clearing dirt from stone homes, but some other people were able to take care of donkeys and goats. My job hasn't required me to dress in first-century garb--hopefully tomorrow I can!
Most of our projects are coming to an end, and I have finished all my papers for the semester. In my next blog post I plan on writing my "Personal Response to the Middle East Conflict" which I had to write already. Until then!
-James
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Blog post from EMU website
Last week was packed with opportunities to learn more about Israeli culture with the Oranim program. We stayed in Kibbutz Ramat HaShofem, one of the first kibbutzim set up in Israel. The original kibbutz system was set up with a mix of socialist and zionist ideals, focused on communal living. This kibbutz has lost many of these original ideals, but still provided a nice setting and guest house for our group to meet and discuss our new perspectives of Israeli culture.
A highlight for many of us was the several “mifgash” (or planned conversations) where we had opportunities to meet with Israelis near our age. On the first evening, we had a chance to talk with four Israeli soldiers. Military service is mandatory for all Israeli youth after high school, which is definitely a contrast to my pacifist upbringings. By the end of our conversation, I was finally able to look past their uniform and gun to see these soldiers as people.
One of my favorite speakers this week was Noha Khativ, an Arab Israeli who grew up as a minority in a Jewish community. She helped set up an organization called Hand in Hand, which has created four bi-lingual schools for Arab and Israeli children within Israel. The classes are taught in both Arabic and Hebrew, which allows the kids to communicate with one another and learn about the other students’ cultures and religious traditions. Not only do the children have opportunities to make friends with one another, but their parents and families are given opportunities to interact as well. These relationships help build understanding between Arabs and Israelis. Hopefully these children will grow up questioning why they are told to hate and fear “the other” and rather build on the relationships they have made through Hand in Hand.
We also met with Tzvika and Ayelet Shahak, whose daughter Bat-Chen was killed in a suicide bombing attack on her 15th birthday in Tel Aviv. Their strength in spreading Bat-Chen’s dream for peace gives me hope for the entire region. Bat-Chen’s Diary has been published in six languages, and I was impressed with her messages for peace even at a young age. Rather than just grieve and become bitter about their daughter’s death, Tzvika and Ayelet converse with other bereaved families, both Israeli and Palestinian, about ending violence.
Other topics of conversation from this week included: the conflict between secular and religious Jews; the post-Holocaust Jewish mindset; and Arab identity as a minority within Israeli society. Being here and discussing Israeli issues has helped me understand the Israeli mindset, however complicated it may be.
Our group also had plenty of opportunities to bond this week over endless cups of tea, random evening card games, a delicious Shabbat dinner in an Israeli home, group presentations on the Arab/Israeli conflict, and a fun-filled Talent Show/Game Night. I am impressed with how much the group has matured and grown since the beginning of the semester, and I consistently gain new insights from them through conversation and discussion. I’m looking forward to our upcoming week in Nazareth and hiking the Jesus Trail to the Sea of Galilee!
-James
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Free Travel!
My last blog post was written partway through free travel, where Joe, Tim and I spent two nights at Tim's uncle's place. After these highly informative and entertaining encounters, we set off to the Sea of Galilee for three days of hiking/camping/backpacking along the eastern coast, from the southern tip to the north. We first picked up the last of our gear from Dave Landis in Nazareth, where we happened to run into Janet and Linford as they were setting off to Ashkelon! It really is a small place.
So we carried our 30-pound packs on our backs for three days, set up camp along beach-like terrain as the sun sank, tended our blisters, ate pita with accessories, and typically got around 11 hours of sleep each night. And oh, the stories! Our third day was by far the most adventurous. Because of the recent rains, the stream crossings were thigh-high and at some points the path simply became the stream. We knew our general direction, thanks to our handy Jesus Trail guidebook, but found ourselves wandering through groves of citrus trees. We picked a few "oranges" for a special snack, which turned out to be lemons. This made the grapefruit we found on the ground taste especially sweet! We walked next to a well-marked minefield through waist-high wildflowers and blazed our way through thick patches of reeds. We were blessed with warm weather and clear skies the entire week. On Thursday we hitchhiked several miles up the road to Yehudia National Park, which had gorgeous waterfalls and colorful wildflowers. This was a great opportunity for me to catch up on relaxation and to realize the beauty of this land. (We also came at the perfect time--most of the year this area is completely brown!) The last two days were spent in Tiberias and in Nazareth. I feel refreshed and ready to tackle our last 5 weeks *gasp!* before returning to the States.
Our group is currently staying in Ecce Homo, a convent in the middle of the Old City. It is great to stand on the balcony and overlook the 1-square-kilometer walled city which is home to 37,000 individuals. So much life, and so much culture.
Well, I tried to upload some photos but this internet isn't cooperating. So use your imagination, and hopefully I can upload some later!
Shalom,
James
So we carried our 30-pound packs on our backs for three days, set up camp along beach-like terrain as the sun sank, tended our blisters, ate pita with accessories, and typically got around 11 hours of sleep each night. And oh, the stories! Our third day was by far the most adventurous. Because of the recent rains, the stream crossings were thigh-high and at some points the path simply became the stream. We knew our general direction, thanks to our handy Jesus Trail guidebook, but found ourselves wandering through groves of citrus trees. We picked a few "oranges" for a special snack, which turned out to be lemons. This made the grapefruit we found on the ground taste especially sweet! We walked next to a well-marked minefield through waist-high wildflowers and blazed our way through thick patches of reeds. We were blessed with warm weather and clear skies the entire week. On Thursday we hitchhiked several miles up the road to Yehudia National Park, which had gorgeous waterfalls and colorful wildflowers. This was a great opportunity for me to catch up on relaxation and to realize the beauty of this land. (We also came at the perfect time--most of the year this area is completely brown!) The last two days were spent in Tiberias and in Nazareth. I feel refreshed and ready to tackle our last 5 weeks *gasp!* before returning to the States.
Our group is currently staying in Ecce Homo, a convent in the middle of the Old City. It is great to stand on the balcony and overlook the 1-square-kilometer walled city which is home to 37,000 individuals. So much life, and so much culture.
Well, I tried to upload some photos but this internet isn't cooperating. So use your imagination, and hopefully I can upload some later!
Shalom,
James
Sunday, March 13, 2011
An update and a very full brain
Our final question on our exam with Jerusalem University College went something like this: "How has experiencing and learning about the geographical history of the Bible been formational to your faith and theology? How will you explain the importance of seeing this land to people back home?" Answer: Being here changes perspectives drastically. By actually sitting on the hill overlooking where David fought Goliath, or floating in the middle of the Sea of Galilee, or seeing what Jesus saw as he taught from the Temple steps, the Bible comes to life. So much of the Old Testament makes sense now, after putting the stories into their cultural context and getting into the mindset of the people in the story. My mind has been stretched, forcing me to reevaluate the Western lens through which we view the Bible. Come, see, experience, and you too can understand.
The purpose of our Jerusalem University College (JUC) program was to put the Biblical stories into geographical and cultural context. We did this by traveling to Biblical sites all across Israel, learning about the trade routes and political forces of the "Land Between", and evaluating the Biblical stories in the context of where it was written. I have so many new thoughts which are difficult to capture in a short blog post, but believe me when I say these past two weeks have been formational.
I am now at the forefront of a new adventure: free travel! Joe, Tim and I have a rough plan of our week, which involves hiking/camping/backpacking along the eastern coast of the Sea of Galilee and into the Golan Heights. Our plans are subject to change, which is the perfect recipe for fantastic stories!
Take the last 24 hours as an example: after waiting several hours for the bus station to open, we took a bus from Jerusalem to Tim's uncle's house, who has lived in Israel for the past 17 years. I couldn't even begin to describe him and his family in a way that you would understand... he's basically an insane 60-year-old genius who talks constantly and verbosely about tangental subjects ranging from politics and theology to lightswitches and traffic jams. His ex-wife is an Israeli Jew, and we are staying at her house which he built. They have two sons aged 19 and 25: the older is a brilliant self-taught scientist and the younger is currently in the military. My brain is so full of conflicting thoughts--staying with Palestinian and Israeli host families in a several-week period will do that to you.
Let the adventure begin!
-James
The purpose of our Jerusalem University College (JUC) program was to put the Biblical stories into geographical and cultural context. We did this by traveling to Biblical sites all across Israel, learning about the trade routes and political forces of the "Land Between", and evaluating the Biblical stories in the context of where it was written. I have so many new thoughts which are difficult to capture in a short blog post, but believe me when I say these past two weeks have been formational.
I am now at the forefront of a new adventure: free travel! Joe, Tim and I have a rough plan of our week, which involves hiking/camping/backpacking along the eastern coast of the Sea of Galilee and into the Golan Heights. Our plans are subject to change, which is the perfect recipe for fantastic stories!
Take the last 24 hours as an example: after waiting several hours for the bus station to open, we took a bus from Jerusalem to Tim's uncle's house, who has lived in Israel for the past 17 years. I couldn't even begin to describe him and his family in a way that you would understand... he's basically an insane 60-year-old genius who talks constantly and verbosely about tangental subjects ranging from politics and theology to lightswitches and traffic jams. His ex-wife is an Israeli Jew, and we are staying at her house which he built. They have two sons aged 19 and 25: the older is a brilliant self-taught scientist and the younger is currently in the military. My brain is so full of conflicting thoughts--staying with Palestinian and Israeli host families in a several-week period will do that to you.
Let the adventure begin!
-James
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
One word: intense
A Palestinian family living in Hebron whose house is located next to an illegal Israeli settlement.
Three of my host sisters
A mosaic at Tent of Nations
Planting grape vines at Tent of Nations
Two kids "playing" in a Palestinian refugee camp
My host father, Samer, gives our group a tour of a refugee camp.
The separation wall 
Where do I even start? I have so much to say, so many thoughts and emotions from this stimulating journey in Palestine, and yet I feel like I can never say enough. I want to encourage everyone back in the States to continue to pray for peace in this area, while actively learning more about the conflict and how America contributes up to 11 million dollars every day to Israel. This money allows illegal settlements and outposts to be built within the West Bank, causing indescribable pain for the Palestinian population. When viewed from a human rights standpoint, regardless of any other factor, the daily injustices here cannot be ignored. Discuss and think critically with open minds full of compassion. The situation is so difficult to understand, and no documentary or news flash can describe everything. I have been here for three days and I feel overwhelmed with information, yet I feel like I am only scratching the surface. It is a painful privelage to be here, seeing and learning, yet I know this is the only way to learn.
Despite the injustice, I see strength. I see strength in Hashem Azzeh, the Palestinian whose family we ate lunch with in Hebron who lives directly beside an Israeli settlement. I see strength in the Israeli youth who refuse to join the military because they see the damage being done. I see strength in the Tent of Nations, who live and farm on land surrounded by Israeli settlements without access to water (they capture rainwater in cisterns), electricity (they use solar panels), or the right to build structures (they live in caves). I see strength in Paulette Schroeder, the CPT volunteer who stands at checkpoints between Israeli soldiers and children walking to school. I see strength in the Palestinians who refuse to be enemies with Israelis, and I see strength in the Israelis who refuse to be enemies with Palestinians. Sometimes this strength seems to be hidden, but it must always be found.
Our group must also show strength as we continue to hear new stories and perspectives. One of our most challenging meetings was with Ardie Geldman, an Israeli living in the settlement of Efrat within the West Bank. He used to live in Chicago, and moved here in 1982. He claims this land has belonged to the Jews for 3000 years, when God gave the Israelites the Promised Land. In his eyes, the Old Testament proves his right to be here. We challenged him with questions, and his responses were quick and well-argued. Needless to say, everything he said sparked more discussions within our group. It has made me wonder: who has the right to own land anywhere and how was that land acquired?
We watched a fantastic documentary called Occupation 101. Find it online and watch it to gain a better perspective of what we are seeing and hearing. The documentary will never be the same as being here, but I guarantee it will make you think.
My brain is so full from everything we learn during the day. Dan and I stay up late having discussions with our Palestinian host father, Samer Kokaly, who is also our tour guide with Alternative Tourism Group. Our week is halfway done, and I hope we can continue to soak in everything we learn.
Today we had the opportunity to plant grapevines at Tent of Nations, the organization surrounded by Israeli settlements. After hearing so much frustrating information, it was good to be able to use our hands and sweat to do something productive. We spent so much time blistering our brains that we forgot how it feels to blister our hands. It was refreshing to hear the message of Tent of Nations. Learn more from their website at www.tentofnations.org/
I will end with a quote from Tent of Nations: Peace must grow like an olive tree: strong from the base, not mandated from above.
As a closing blessing, here is a quote seen on a ceramic tile in Hebron: Shalom, Y'all.
Three of my host sisters
A mosaic at Tent of Nations
Planting grape vines at Tent of Nations
Two kids "playing" in a Palestinian refugee camp
My host father, Samer, gives our group a tour of a refugee camp.
The separation wall 
Where do I even start? I have so much to say, so many thoughts and emotions from this stimulating journey in Palestine, and yet I feel like I can never say enough. I want to encourage everyone back in the States to continue to pray for peace in this area, while actively learning more about the conflict and how America contributes up to 11 million dollars every day to Israel. This money allows illegal settlements and outposts to be built within the West Bank, causing indescribable pain for the Palestinian population. When viewed from a human rights standpoint, regardless of any other factor, the daily injustices here cannot be ignored. Discuss and think critically with open minds full of compassion. The situation is so difficult to understand, and no documentary or news flash can describe everything. I have been here for three days and I feel overwhelmed with information, yet I feel like I am only scratching the surface. It is a painful privelage to be here, seeing and learning, yet I know this is the only way to learn. Despite the injustice, I see strength. I see strength in Hashem Azzeh, the Palestinian whose family we ate lunch with in Hebron who lives directly beside an Israeli settlement. I see strength in the Israeli youth who refuse to join the military because they see the damage being done. I see strength in the Tent of Nations, who live and farm on land surrounded by Israeli settlements without access to water (they capture rainwater in cisterns), electricity (they use solar panels), or the right to build structures (they live in caves). I see strength in Paulette Schroeder, the CPT volunteer who stands at checkpoints between Israeli soldiers and children walking to school. I see strength in the Palestinians who refuse to be enemies with Israelis, and I see strength in the Israelis who refuse to be enemies with Palestinians. Sometimes this strength seems to be hidden, but it must always be found.
Our group must also show strength as we continue to hear new stories and perspectives. One of our most challenging meetings was with Ardie Geldman, an Israeli living in the settlement of Efrat within the West Bank. He used to live in Chicago, and moved here in 1982. He claims this land has belonged to the Jews for 3000 years, when God gave the Israelites the Promised Land. In his eyes, the Old Testament proves his right to be here. We challenged him with questions, and his responses were quick and well-argued. Needless to say, everything he said sparked more discussions within our group. It has made me wonder: who has the right to own land anywhere and how was that land acquired?
We watched a fantastic documentary called Occupation 101. Find it online and watch it to gain a better perspective of what we are seeing and hearing. The documentary will never be the same as being here, but I guarantee it will make you think.
My brain is so full from everything we learn during the day. Dan and I stay up late having discussions with our Palestinian host father, Samer Kokaly, who is also our tour guide with Alternative Tourism Group. Our week is halfway done, and I hope we can continue to soak in everything we learn.
Today we had the opportunity to plant grapevines at Tent of Nations, the organization surrounded by Israeli settlements. After hearing so much frustrating information, it was good to be able to use our hands and sweat to do something productive. We spent so much time blistering our brains that we forgot how it feels to blister our hands. It was refreshing to hear the message of Tent of Nations. Learn more from their website at www.tentofnations.org/
I will end with a quote from Tent of Nations: Peace must grow like an olive tree: strong from the base, not mandated from above.
As a closing blessing, here is a quote seen on a ceramic tile in Hebron: Shalom, Y'all.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
A brief update...
Greetings from Palestine! So much has happened since my last blog post about Lebanon. We finished our time in Syria, spent a week in Jordan, saw PETRA(!!!), stayed in a Bedouin camp, rode camels, raced across the desert in jeeps while boasting keffiyehs, relaxed in a hotel in Amman, and braved the border crossing into Israel/Palestine. I wish I could describe everything for you, but just be satisfied to know that everything has been incredible and has surpassed all my expectations.
The border crossing today was a bit intense, probably because the Israeli guards weren't pleased with us having spent time in Syria. They kept half of us for almost two hours, but we all made it through eventually. I'm currently writing this in my awesome host family's living room while watching an Arabic soap opera set in Damascus. I'm staying with Dan, and our host father's name is Samer Kokaly, the person who is in charge of planning our week. He has four daughters, aged from 6 to 16, and so far we have had a blast making card towers and eating sunflower seeds. I'm extremely excited for this week and all we will learn about this active area of the world.
Keep your thoughts and prayers coming in our direction! A cold is circulating through our group, and it seems I have caught whatever is going around. Hopefully this won't put a damper on this week--pray that everyone can recover quickly and get enough sleep to keep our energy up for a packed schedule.
Shalom!
-James
The border crossing today was a bit intense, probably because the Israeli guards weren't pleased with us having spent time in Syria. They kept half of us for almost two hours, but we all made it through eventually. I'm currently writing this in my awesome host family's living room while watching an Arabic soap opera set in Damascus. I'm staying with Dan, and our host father's name is Samer Kokaly, the person who is in charge of planning our week. He has four daughters, aged from 6 to 16, and so far we have had a blast making card towers and eating sunflower seeds. I'm extremely excited for this week and all we will learn about this active area of the world.
Keep your thoughts and prayers coming in our direction! A cold is circulating through our group, and it seems I have caught whatever is going around. Hopefully this won't put a damper on this week--pray that everyone can recover quickly and get enough sleep to keep our energy up for a packed schedule.
Shalom!
-James
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Sa'lam aleikum!
It feels like so much has happened since my last blog entry, which is certainly a good problem to have. Some of my most memorable experiences include: hiking to the top of Mount Cassion, attending a traditional Syrian Orthodox Church, meeting with the chairman of the Syrian Environmental Association, being treated to a feast-of-a-breakfast by our Berlitz teachers, learning more Arabic, and of course our trip to Lebanon. This blog will focus on my experience in Lebanon, for the sake of time.
Before leaving Damascus, I was a bit nervous about crossing the border into Lebanon because of all the news we had been hearing about the government collapsing and the Hezbollah uprising. We made it through customs without problems and we were met on the Lebanese side by an extremely friendly and outgoing female tour guide named Clare. The geography of Lebanon is absolutely incredible with stunning mountains and pristine Mediterranean coastlines only several miles apart. Unbelievable.
Here is a journal entry that accurately describes my thoughts about our first day in Beirut:
1-27-11
At first glance, Beirut seemed like a pile of buildings from above sandwiched between mountains and the Mediterranean. Most of the city is highly Westernized with European/American stores and restaurants. However, these brightly-lit buildings are ironically juxtaposed against bullet-worn buildings and old Roman ruins. It is amazing to think that most of the buildings in the historic area are completely restored since the Muslim-Christian wars. Many of the people look very modern as well--we fit in more here than we do in Damascus.
My favorite part by far is walking alongside the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The blue waters splash up against the rocks, making fountains and hypnotic whirlpools that I could stare at for hours. A group of us found a nice place along the rocks in the evening to laugh, sing and chat while watching the sun sink lower into the sea.
I find it strange that the world hears about so much violence and unrest in Lebanon, and yet here we are in the capital, exploring the city that doesn't show a hint of violence. Most people seem to be going about their regular lives, despite the political turmoil going on.
Our time in Beirut was a great experience, but I think I can speak for the group by saying we were ready to return to Damascus. Entering the Monastery felt like we were returning home, however strange that may sound. I think it's because we have a fairly predictable and enjoyable routine in Damascus that we did not have in Lebanon. This is both good and bad, seeing as the rest of our trip after Damascus will be mostly travel and much less consistent. For now, my hope is that I can enjoy where I am and continue to find new insights every day.
The social and political turmoil in Egypt adds an interesting dynamic to our trip. There is no need to worry about us--we have not personally felt any negative ramifications, as Syria is one of the most stable countries in the region. It is just so different hearing the news about what is happening in Egypt while being so much closer the action than if we were still in America. And imagine--any other year the cross-cultural group would just be leaving Egypt. We are truly in safe hands.
Blessings from Syria!
-James
It feels like so much has happened since my last blog entry, which is certainly a good problem to have. Some of my most memorable experiences include: hiking to the top of Mount Cassion, attending a traditional Syrian Orthodox Church, meeting with the chairman of the Syrian Environmental Association, being treated to a feast-of-a-breakfast by our Berlitz teachers, learning more Arabic, and of course our trip to Lebanon. This blog will focus on my experience in Lebanon, for the sake of time.
Before leaving Damascus, I was a bit nervous about crossing the border into Lebanon because of all the news we had been hearing about the government collapsing and the Hezbollah uprising. We made it through customs without problems and we were met on the Lebanese side by an extremely friendly and outgoing female tour guide named Clare. The geography of Lebanon is absolutely incredible with stunning mountains and pristine Mediterranean coastlines only several miles apart. Unbelievable.
Here is a journal entry that accurately describes my thoughts about our first day in Beirut:
1-27-11
At first glance, Beirut seemed like a pile of buildings from above sandwiched between mountains and the Mediterranean. Most of the city is highly Westernized with European/American stores and restaurants. However, these brightly-lit buildings are ironically juxtaposed against bullet-worn buildings and old Roman ruins. It is amazing to think that most of the buildings in the historic area are completely restored since the Muslim-Christian wars. Many of the people look very modern as well--we fit in more here than we do in Damascus.
My favorite part by far is walking alongside the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The blue waters splash up against the rocks, making fountains and hypnotic whirlpools that I could stare at for hours. A group of us found a nice place along the rocks in the evening to laugh, sing and chat while watching the sun sink lower into the sea.
I find it strange that the world hears about so much violence and unrest in Lebanon, and yet here we are in the capital, exploring the city that doesn't show a hint of violence. Most people seem to be going about their regular lives, despite the political turmoil going on.
Our time in Beirut was a great experience, but I think I can speak for the group by saying we were ready to return to Damascus. Entering the Monastery felt like we were returning home, however strange that may sound. I think it's because we have a fairly predictable and enjoyable routine in Damascus that we did not have in Lebanon. This is both good and bad, seeing as the rest of our trip after Damascus will be mostly travel and much less consistent. For now, my hope is that I can enjoy where I am and continue to find new insights every day.
The social and political turmoil in Egypt adds an interesting dynamic to our trip. There is no need to worry about us--we have not personally felt any negative ramifications, as Syria is one of the most stable countries in the region. It is just so different hearing the news about what is happening in Egypt while being so much closer the action than if we were still in America. And imagine--any other year the cross-cultural group would just be leaving Egypt. We are truly in safe hands.
Blessings from Syria!
-James
Friday, January 21, 2011
Middle East -- Week 1
Marhaba! Welcome to my first blog post from the Middle East! It is hard to believe that a week has passed since departing from EMU. Everything is going so well, and I am finally adjusting to life in Damascus. The city is so much fun to explore, and generally I can buy a delicious lunch off the street for less than 2 US dollars. Our group has not faced any severe problems and nobody has managed to get lost or injured amid the hectic traffic, despite the language barrier. We are learning some Arabic through the Berlitz program but we are currently at the most basic stage of the most basic level, and it seems like everything we learn in the classroom is forgotten as soon as we step outside the doors. (But don't worry--I can say important phrases such as "This pen is on that table" and "Where is Bab Sharqi?")
Here are some snippets from journal entries which, I hope, will give you some insight to my experiences thus far. It is impossible to describe everything, so instead I will share several stories and perhaps a few photos.
1-14-11 (Day 1)
We are now on the bus--the trip has begun! I wish I had taken out my camera when everyone was waving at us. It was very meaningful to see the EMU community together with their hands raised, sending us from the familiar to the unknown. But perhaps NOT having a picture with me is a freeing experience--a symbol of my departure and detachment from everything familiar. This way I will only have pictures on my camera from the Middle East. Still, seeing everyone waving at us is a 'picture' I hope I never forget.
1-15-11 (Day 1.5)
Sunset, Sunrise
We left DC as the sun was setting, and arrived in Vienna as the sun rose, reflecting golden light over a lake with windmills silhouetted against mountains and European fields. I still find it incredible that we flew all the way over the ocean in a giant chunk of metal.
After exploring/walking around Amman, Jordan, a group of us sat outside our hotel and talked about our observations, such as building style and hectic traffic patterns. Just then, the call to prayer was broadcast from the Muslim mosque next to our hotel. The soaring male voice rang throughout the city, resonating off buildings and echoing back to us. Joe, Ben and I sat back and soaked it all in. I really did feel the call as a spiritual experience, even though I am not familiar with Islamic tradition.
1-16-11 (Day 2)
We are on the road to Damascus. I just felt like writing that down.
Funny story: We had a "placement test" for the Berlitz program. The instructor spoke to me in Arabic, something like "Isme Kinda. Shu isme?" and of course I didn't know what she meant, so I responded with one of the only Arabic words I knew: "La," which means "no". She chuckled a little and sent me on my way, convinced that I did not know any Arabic. Little did I know that she was inquiring about my name, so I suppose you should start calling me "No" now!
1-17-11 (Day 3)
We got to Berlitz a little early and walked around. Some of us noticed a tree with tea bags hanging down, and wondered why they were there. A man sitting nearby must have seen our inquisitive looks, so he picked up a tea bag and threw it in the air. He kept trying animatedly until the bag wrapped around a twig--then he celebrated by jumping and cheering. I like this place.
Linford sent us off after class to find food and make our way back to the hotel. All the traffic and shops were overwhelming at first, especially the incredible Suq leading to the Old City. Once we got our bearings and made the first purchase (pita with Zatar), everything became much clearer and we had smaller bills, which was quite helpful.
1-18-11 (Day 4)
I'm feeling much more comfortable and confident walking around Damascus--maybe soon I will explore more. I decided to bring my camera along today, which was an excellent choice. The suqs (think mall, only bigger with more variety and extremely crowded) were so photogenic, as was the historic Umayyad mosque inside the Old Damascus city walls. Several of us found a neat restaurant near Bab Touma which didn't look like much from the street, but turned out to be a giant ornate room with orange trees and a fountain. We sat down and examined the menus--the prices were reasonable, we could easily eat for under 4 US dollars. I decided on a lentil soup, some falafel, and a traditional Damascan dish called Fatteh, which ended up being another soup with chick peas and flavored bread. It was good, but the bowl was so large that I only finished about half of it--even after passing the bowl around the table several times!
We then walked to the Umayyad mosque, and the girls split off to buy scarves. (This mosque is extremely historic--look it up if you have the chance. It is the fourth holiest place in Islam, one of the oldest mosques in the world, and contains a shrine to John the Baptist.) Tim and I hung out inside the mosque until sunset. It was fascinating to just sit and watch people. I was expecting the mosque to be a holy and quiet site, but instead it was more of a social gathering spot with children running around and sliding on the smooth tile. The enclosed area was more worship-oriented. While we were sitting, a group of five boys came up to us, laughing and making friendly conversation. We talked to them for a while (or rather, listened and smiled) and of course they wanted to take pictures with us. It was great to share my limited Arabic with them, and laugh with them over mistakes. Experiences like these have encouraged me to remain humble and realize there is so much I have yet to learn.
1-19-11 (Day 5)
After Arabic class today the group met at an Archeological Museum which had some fantastic items: the first tablet of a written alphabet, the oldest known written "sheet music" (also carved into a tablet), a giant painted picture of Alexander the Great, and an actual stone chunk of hieroglyphics. It is difficult for me to grasp how old some of those items are.
1-20-11 (Day 6)
Victory! I can now count to 100 in Arabic! Ktirmineh!
This afternoon Linford guided the group on a fascinating "journey of Saul/Paul in Damascus." Right next to our monastery is a "Memorial of Saint Paul" which commemorates the site where Saul was blinded by a vision of Jesus. We then walked to the old city wall (Linford joked that he was going to blindfold all of us--we definitely would have been crushed by traffic) to the Bob Sharqi entrance on Straight Street. We then visited the house of Annanias, who was told in a vision to meet Saul. We then stopped along Straight Street, near where Saul was baptized Paul by Annanias, causing the scales of blindness to fall from his eyes. Our next stop is probably something that has never been done by a group following the journey of Paul. Linford led us to a house in the Jewish sector along the wall, and had everyone enter the house and cram onto the back deck. Linford then read from his Bible the part of the story where Paul escapes the walled city by way of a basket over the wall, and then he told us that we would not be going back the way we came in. He pointed to the fire pole, which stretched at least 25 feet to the bottom of the wall. We gasped nervously as he gave more instruction and the first person grabbed onto the pole and slid all the way down to the ground. The drop was exhilarating--not only because of the height but also knowing that Paul would have been in a similar situation many many years ago. Our final stop was to the church built to commemorate Saul's conversion to Paul. What an incredible experience!
1-21-11 (Day 7)
Fridays are the Muslim holy day, so the streets and shops were abnormally empty. The city had a relaxed feel about it, and people were walking around with their families in a much more calm manner than a hectic weekday. We were encouraged to observe the Friday evening call to prayer in the Umayyad mosque. Brendan, Joe and I went together and sat near the back, near the chain that separates men from women. It was fascinating to observe the long rows of people standing, bowing, kneeling and praying in sync. The traditions seem so deeply rooted, which makes it difficult for an outsider to understand the importance of certain symbols or motions. I'm just grateful to be able to observe the call to prayer in such a historic building.
Until next time!
-James
Here are some snippets from journal entries which, I hope, will give you some insight to my experiences thus far. It is impossible to describe everything, so instead I will share several stories and perhaps a few photos.1-14-11 (Day 1)
We are now on the bus--the trip has begun! I wish I had taken out my camera when everyone was waving at us. It was very meaningful to see the EMU community together with their hands raised, sending us from the familiar to the unknown. But perhaps NOT having a picture with me is a freeing experience--a symbol of my departure and detachment from everything familiar. This way I will only have pictures on my camera from the Middle East. Still, seeing everyone waving at us is a 'picture' I hope I never forget.
1-15-11 (Day 1.5)
Sunset, Sunrise
We left DC as the sun was setting, and arrived in Vienna as the sun rose, reflecting golden light over a lake with windmills silhouetted against mountains and European fields. I still find it incredible that we flew all the way over the ocean in a giant chunk of metal.
After exploring/walking around Amman, Jordan, a group of us sat outside our hotel and talked about our observations, such as building style and hectic traffic patterns. Just then, the call to prayer was broadcast from the Muslim mosque next to our hotel. The soaring male voice rang throughout the city, resonating off buildings and echoing back to us. Joe, Ben and I sat back and soaked it all in. I really did feel the call as a spiritual experience, even though I am not familiar with Islamic tradition.
1-16-11 (Day 2)We are on the road to Damascus. I just felt like writing that down.
In Bosra, Syria, our tour guide stopped the bus for us to see the remains of an old Roman amphitheater and bathhouse. Absolutely incredible--I couldn't believe something that old could still be in such great shape. I stopped in the Roman ruins and gave two kids each a Starburst from my pocket. They were both very pleased.
Funny story: We had a "placement test" for the Berlitz program. The instructor spoke to me in Arabic, something like "Isme Kinda. Shu isme?" and of course I didn't know what she meant, so I responded with one of the only Arabic words I knew: "La," which means "no". She chuckled a little and sent me on my way, convinced that I did not know any Arabic. Little did I know that she was inquiring about my name, so I suppose you should start calling me "No" now!
1-17-11 (Day 3)
We got to Berlitz a little early and walked around. Some of us noticed a tree with tea bags hanging down, and wondered why they were there. A man sitting nearby must have seen our inquisitive looks, so he picked up a tea bag and threw it in the air. He kept trying animatedly until the bag wrapped around a twig--then he celebrated by jumping and cheering. I like this place.
Linford sent us off after class to find food and make our way back to the hotel. All the traffic and shops were overwhelming at first, especially the incredible Suq leading to the Old City. Once we got our bearings and made the first purchase (pita with Zatar), everything became much clearer and we had smaller bills, which was quite helpful.
1-18-11 (Day 4)
I'm feeling much more comfortable and confident walking around Damascus--maybe soon I will explore more. I decided to bring my camera along today, which was an excellent choice. The suqs (think mall, only bigger with more variety and extremely crowded) were so photogenic, as was the historic Umayyad mosque inside the Old Damascus city walls. Several of us found a neat restaurant near Bab Touma which didn't look like much from the street, but turned out to be a giant ornate room with orange trees and a fountain. We sat down and examined the menus--the prices were reasonable, we could easily eat for under 4 US dollars. I decided on a lentil soup, some falafel, and a traditional Damascan dish called Fatteh, which ended up being another soup with chick peas and flavored bread. It was good, but the bowl was so large that I only finished about half of it--even after passing the bowl around the table several times!
We then walked to the Umayyad mosque, and the girls split off to buy scarves. (This mosque is extremely historic--look it up if you have the chance. It is the fourth holiest place in Islam, one of the oldest mosques in the world, and contains a shrine to John the Baptist.) Tim and I hung out inside the mosque until sunset. It was fascinating to just sit and watch people. I was expecting the mosque to be a holy and quiet site, but instead it was more of a social gathering spot with children running around and sliding on the smooth tile. The enclosed area was more worship-oriented. While we were sitting, a group of five boys came up to us, laughing and making friendly conversation. We talked to them for a while (or rather, listened and smiled) and of course they wanted to take pictures with us. It was great to share my limited Arabic with them, and laugh with them over mistakes. Experiences like these have encouraged me to remain humble and realize there is so much I have yet to learn.
1-19-11 (Day 5)
After Arabic class today the group met at an Archeological Museum which had some fantastic items: the first tablet of a written alphabet, the oldest known written "sheet music" (also carved into a tablet), a giant painted picture of Alexander the Great, and an actual stone chunk of hieroglyphics. It is difficult for me to grasp how old some of those items are.
1-20-11 (Day 6)
Victory! I can now count to 100 in Arabic! Ktirmineh!
This afternoon Linford guided the group on a fascinating "journey of Saul/Paul in Damascus." Right next to our monastery is a "Memorial of Saint Paul" which commemorates the site where Saul was blinded by a vision of Jesus. We then walked to the old city wall (Linford joked that he was going to blindfold all of us--we definitely would have been crushed by traffic) to the Bob Sharqi entrance on Straight Street. We then visited the house of Annanias, who was told in a vision to meet Saul. We then stopped along Straight Street, near where Saul was baptized Paul by Annanias, causing the scales of blindness to fall from his eyes. Our next stop is probably something that has never been done by a group following the journey of Paul. Linford led us to a house in the Jewish sector along the wall, and had everyone enter the house and cram onto the back deck. Linford then read from his Bible the part of the story where Paul escapes the walled city by way of a basket over the wall, and then he told us that we would not be going back the way we came in. He pointed to the fire pole, which stretched at least 25 feet to the bottom of the wall. We gasped nervously as he gave more instruction and the first person grabbed onto the pole and slid all the way down to the ground. The drop was exhilarating--not only because of the height but also knowing that Paul would have been in a similar situation many many years ago. Our final stop was to the church built to commemorate Saul's conversion to Paul. What an incredible experience!
1-21-11 (Day 7)
Fridays are the Muslim holy day, so the streets and shops were abnormally empty. The city had a relaxed feel about it, and people were walking around with their families in a much more calm manner than a hectic weekday. We were encouraged to observe the Friday evening call to prayer in the Umayyad mosque. Brendan, Joe and I went together and sat near the back, near the chain that separates men from women. It was fascinating to observe the long rows of people standing, bowing, kneeling and praying in sync. The traditions seem so deeply rooted, which makes it difficult for an outsider to understand the importance of certain symbols or motions. I'm just grateful to be able to observe the call to prayer in such a historic building.
Until next time!-James
Saturday, January 8, 2011
Middle East, here I come!
In a mere 6 days, I will be leaving the comforts of Harrisonburg and venturing into my cross-cultural adventures in the Middle East. My belongings are currently scattered throughout my room, waiting to be packed into a large (and very empty) backpack which will soon become a very full travel-mate. This blog is a way for me to update friends and family back home with journal entries, pictures and musings. Enjoy!
As I listened with anticipation to the soaring melody of "My name is James..." and watched with awestruck wonder as seagulls tied to strands of spider string lifted the peach safely out of the shark-infested water, I came to a realization. There is not much different between James Henry Trotter and James David Witmer Souder.
You may be curious about my blog title: James and the Giant Lemon. The other evening I watched (for the first time!) the movie rendition of the fantastic Roald Dahl book which may or may not be the source of my namesake.
As I listened with anticipation to the soaring melody of "My name is James..." and watched with awestruck wonder as seagulls tied to strands of spider string lifted the peach safely out of the shark-infested water, I came to a realization. There is not much different between James Henry Trotter and James David Witmer Souder. OK, we have our differences, one of which being that my loving family has not been consumed by a rhinoceros and I am not enslaved to evil aunts named Sponge and Spiker. But we are both named James, and we are both preparing for an epic journey across the ocean.
What's with the lemon? you may be wondering. Well, I am in the process of finishing a book entitled "The Lemon Tree" by Sandy Tolan, a book outlining the history and complexity of the Israeli/Palestinian conflict. This book has given me a broader perspective of the conflict, of which I hope to gain even more insight (or confusion) as I experience the area firsthand.
Thus, I have chosen a lemon as my mode of transport across the Atlantic over a peach. Or perhaps the "giant lemon" could be a metaphor for the world, and I being a mere traveler across its surface. Either way, if I find myself in unfortunate situations during my travels, perhaps I will be reminded of the old saying: "If life gives you lemons, make peach juice, then sit back and watch the world wonder."
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